2024 Bordeaux Initial Report
Posted by Zoran Ristanović | Tue 22 Apr 2025 | En Primeur

2024 Bordeaux initial report

I hope that you have all had a very fine Easter Break and enjoyed the weather as well as some good food and wine.

As it had been the case for the last 30 years (where did the time go?), I have spent the week before Easter in Bordeaux at En primeur tastings. Most of you would have seen various reports by now and will probably notice that the journalists are far less enthusiastic about the vintage than it would appear from various wine merchants reports (including mine). The truth is somewhere in the middle; journalist have to write a report on the whole region (after all writing is how they make their living) and are not necessarily interested in the nitty–gritty aspects of efforts/achievements delivered by individual Chateaux.

But yes, the journalist are correct in their reporting; the vintage was very unfriendly to the vignerons. It rained consistently during the flowering season which not only stimulated the development of all pests (Mildew, Oidium) but also hampered the homogenous flowering and development of fruit which finally delivered uneven ripeness at the end of the season. Some hot and dry weather in July and August helped the ripening, but it is very heterogenous and selection of individual chateau is of the upmost importance. Overall, Cabernet has done far better than the Merlot

Ten (or more) years ago, a vintage like this would have been a complete write-off. However, the latest advances in meteorological forecasting and latest technology did help those with unlimited resources to bring out the best out of their terroirs and produce very fine, elegant, “old school” claret. And if you ask me, there is nothing wrong with it. After all, the reputation of great Bordeaux was built on the Old School claret, not on the wines made over the last 10-15 years. Or, to paraphrase Alexandre Thienpont of Vieux Chateau Certan, "This is the sort of wine you could have for lunch with roast chicken and still go and work in the afternoon."

Don’t get me wrong, there are no outstanding wines in 2024. There are no wines rated higher than 18+ out of 20 on my scale (call it 96 out of 100 with critics), but those which did receive 16-18 all show very fine tannins with focused (if somewhat singular) small autumn forest berries in the structure, and elegant, almost Burgundian style acidity. Generally, those closer to the river with good draining soils have had better chance to achieve maturity. Also, those with resources to use optical (and other) selection machines to "weed out" any unripe berries actually made very fine, elegant wines for early – mid term drinking. Please bear in mind that “thanks” to these selection machines some properties have made less than half of the usual production. If I can highlight one positive aspect of this vintage, which would make some of the wines worth having, that would be the individuality of the vintage. We have not had a vintage of this style and elegance for a very longtime in Bordeaux – obviously I am talking about very few properties – see list below. I feel that some of these wines will bring a unique and enjoyable experiences (albeit, more academic than hedonistic) in yers to come.

 

So, is it worth buying and why/what? As ever with Bordeaux, that is the question of the release price. Most conversations I have had during the week eventually came down to the pricing issue. For once, it would appear that the Chateaux owners are getting the message and there had been talks of prices dropping towards 2014 release levels. Should that happen, it will be the whole new ball game, but we can revisit that in due course once we see the releases over the next few days.

 

In the meantime, here is the list of wines which for me delivered the style of the vintage and the quality which would make them worth including into the cellar. Listed in no particular order, but starting from St Estephe in north Medoc. You will notice that there are no 1st growths other than Ch Margaux – prices listed are my highest estimate:

 

St Estephe

Calon Segur 18+ = if less than £ 350 per 6 ( and the 2nd wine Marquis de Calon if less than £ 125 per 6 )

Montrose 18+ = if less than £ 390 per 6 ( and the 2nd wine Dame de Montrose if less than £ 140 per 6 )

 

Pauillac

Grand Puy Lacoste 16+ = if less than 180 per 6

Pichon Comtesse 18++ = if less than £ 480 per 6 (and the 2nd wine Reserve de La Comtesse if less than £ 180 per 6)

 

St Julien:

Langoa Barton 16++ = if less than 180 per 6 Leoville Barton 17 = if less than 240.00 per 6

Beychevelle 17 = if less than 300 per 6

 

Margaux:

Rauzan Segla 17 = if less than 240 per 6

Ch Margaux 18++ = if less than 1500 per 6 ( and the 2nd wine Pavillon Rouge if less than £ 550 per 6 ) – the wine of the vintage for me Palmer 17 = if less than 800 per 6

 

Pessac Leognan

Ch Le Thil 16+ = if less than 120 per 6

Smith Haut Lafitte 17+ = if less than 300 per 6

 

St Emilion

Canon 18 = if less than 250 per 6

Figeac 18 = if less than 450 per 6 bott Fleur Cardinale 16 = if less than 150 per 6

 

Pomerol

Vieux Chateau Certan 18+ = if less than 480 per 6

 

The others have not made the cut and will be worth thinking of only if they are released at least 20 % below the lowest vintage on the market. In that is the case, we can play with investment potential which is another story.

Wishing you all the best

Zoran

City Wine Collection Ltd