Good afternoon good people.
Hope you all had a great January despite the market’s turmoils, terrorists and hurricanes. It was quite a hectic start of the year, so now is the time for a little bright spark: the Queen of all Whites – The White Burgundy.
As usual in January, I have been busy tasting through new vintage releases, and some 400 different 2014 White and Red Burgundies have passed though my glass, many of which 2-3 times. By a rough estimate, about 1200 wines in total over 3 weeks. Not bad for the start of the year.
The good news is that it was actually worth it this time. Following mainly wishy/washy wines from 2012 and 2013, the 2014’s were a real pleasure to taste. This is the first time since the 2002 vintage (yes that long ago) that I have not found any sub-standard wines throughout the tasting. Okay, not everything is great but, the standard across the region is so high that it is more a question of picking the best of the best than trying to pick the gems from the dirt.
Another good news is that volumes were reasonable in 2014 so, in most cases, the prices have not been increased whilst the quality is much higher. For me, the villages of Chablis and Chassagne Montrachet delivered the highest overall quality for whites. There are also some really decent wines (and great values) from still “unfashionable” villages like Santenay and southern regions of Maconnais and Chalonnais. This is definitely the vintage to stock up on for the next 2-8 years of fine white drinking. Reds are also very decent, ripe, clean and well structured but, perhaps slightly overshadowed by the quality of the whites. Overall, Gevery Chambertin seem to have done the best job with many Village wines delivering as high a quality as 1er Crus (Domaine Marc Roy comes to mind).
I am also very happy to report that we are now one of Importers for the wines from Domaine Samuel Billaud in Chablis. This is only his 2nd vintage on his own and the wines are the best Chablis that I have tasted in 25 years of professional wine buying.
And the prices? Well, Burgundy is Burgundy and it will never be cheap. If anything, it will only get more expensive but, when they get it right as in 2014, it is worth raiding the piggy bank! The quantities are limited for all wines, so an early response is strongly advised, and please feel free to call me should you wish to discuss any of them. I will not bore you with detailed notes for all the wines tasted (over 400 different wines) so, as ever, I will only list the wines that I believe have over-delivered in terms of quality and value. If you have a favourite producer/village/wine that is not listed, please let me know and I will get it for you.
Please note, the prices listed are per 12 bottles under bond excluding the duty and vat, unless otherwise stated, bearing in mind Burgundy being Burgundy, none of the producers will guarantee that the wines will actually be packed in 6 or 12 bott boxes. We will do our best to get 6 packs where available, but some of the wines might come in 12 bottle boxes and will need to be split.
Finally, due to a large number of wines reviewed and the limited space on this mail-out, I will only list the main domain information and the wines in the body of the mail. For detailed tasting notes on individual wines listed please click on the link here Burgundy Tasting Notes to download the PDF. And here we go:
Domanine Samuel Billaud
Samuel is one of Chablis’ finest wine-makers. For twenty years he was responsible for the superb quality of wine at the family estate, Domaine Billaud-Simon. Following the sale of Domaine Billaud-Simon to Faiveley in 2014, he was able to regain control of his share of the family vineyards, now making magnificent wines, the very best in Chablis today. I have to admit that I have drunk more Chablis in the last 2 months since we shipped the first lot of 2014 than in the previous 10 years.
Domaine Jacques Girard, Santenay
This is also a new estate for us, now under a management of young Justin Girardin (13th generation vigneron) based in Santenay, with a single parcel in Chassagne 1er cru. These are not cult wines, but a very decent, honest.
Domaine Christophe Cordier, Maconnais
Christopher is a talented young winemaker producing wines of much higher quality than the appellation would suggest. Possibly I have picked only 2 out of his selection of wines, but they are both real gems.
Domaine Saumaize-Michelin, Pouilly Fuisse
Now this is the real estate for those of you who are not interested in labels. Roger and Christine Saumaize run the finest estate of Vergisson in the heart of the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. Domaine is cultivated biodynamically, and the juice is fermented in the underground cellar adjacent to their house at the top of the Village. The quality and the style is that of Puligny / Meursault.
Domaine Dureuil-Jonthial, Rully
I have followed this Domaine for few years now and without fail young Vincent delivers quality well above Rully status. His whites are more akin to Meursault than the humble Rully. From the reds, the village Rully stands out as modern, pure style of Pinot Noir; and he has a small parcel of 1er Cru Nuits St Georges, Argillieres which is quite special and very well priced (and very limited in availability). His reds show New World purity of fruit combined with classic Burgundian structure, a rare find.
White
Red
Domaine Gérard Thomas et Filles
A fine little Domaine in St Aubin now run by Gérard’s two daughters,
Anne and Isabelle. Their technical training has resulted in fresher, purer wines with more precise flavours. Their Saint Aubin Champ Tirant has improved tremendously over the last few years.
Domaine Philippe Colin
One of the best young guns in Chassagne making bright and vibrant wines; the future of Burgundy if you ask me. We do have small allocations, so first come first served.
Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot
Jean-Marc runs one of the finest small Domaines in Chasagne; reassuringly reliable and one of my long time favourites. Jean-Marc’s vines lie predominantly on the border between Chassagne and Puligny just below Grand Cru Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet.
Domaine Vincent et François Jouard
Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy
Jean-Louis makes forward, fruity style of Puligny for early consumption. The wines are soft and round with low acidity, crowd pleasing and easy drinking.
Domaine Patrick Javillier, Meursault
For some years now Patrick had been one of the best producers in the Village of Meursault despite not having any 1er cru Vineyards. His Bourgogne Chardonnays however are at the quality level not far from other peoples Meursaults. Unfortunately, he got hit by hail again in 2014, so the quantities are low, but the concentration and intensity are great; very long lived wines. There is no weak links in his portfolio but, in 2014 Tillets seem to have punched above its weight as did single vineyard Cuvee de Forgets. We will have few bottles of his extraordinary Corton for those special occasions when only the Grand Cru will do. Not shy at this price, but worth every penny.
Domaine Michel Magnien
Another biodynamic estate blossoming under stewardship of Frédéric Magnien, a 5th generation on the family estate based in Morey Saint Denis. He joined his father Michel in 1993, and has gradually tempered the style, reducing the amount of new oak and producing wines with more aroma, fruit and elegance.
Domaine Marc Roy
This is an exceptional domain in Gevrey Chambertin run by Alexandrine Roy with tiny production of some of the very best reds that the appellation produces (less than 1800 cases in total). However, a discovery of the 2014 is their white: Marsannay les Champs Perdrix. I have not noticed it in previous vintages, but in 2014 this was a revelation.
White
Red
Domaine Bertrand Ambroise
As with Jean-Jacques above, I don’t buy Bertrand’s wines every year but, the quality here has been on the up over the last few years. From his large offering, I have picked 1 white and 3 reds for 2014, all real gems if little unknown vineyards.
Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard
I don’t buy Jean-Jacques wines every year and find his lower end whites to be a bit thin, but his 2014 Corton Charlemagne is exceptional – About the only chance to buy a very decent Grand Cru for less than £100. Reds, on the other hand are very decent all the way across, especially his Savigny and Beaune.
To read Burgundy 2014 Tasting Notes, please Click Here
Please note, prices listed are per 12 bottles under bond, excluding the Duty and VAT, unless otherwise stated. However, Burgundy being Burgundy, none of the producers will guarantee that the wines will actually be packed in 6 or 12 bott boxes. We will do our best to get 6 packs where available but, some of the wines might come in 12 bott boxes and will need to be split.
All the best
Zoran Ristanovic
City Wine Collection
2 Bridge Street
Richmond Upon Thames
TW9 1TQ
T:02089487823