As promised, here is the first of the 2022 Burgundy releases.
Most of you would know that I am quite skeptical about the image and the hype that follows famous estates in Burgundy and rarely make releases from the region. Fortunately, behind all that hype there are numerous young people (away from the limelight) who are working tirelessly and crafting some of the most beautiful wine-lovers wines you will run across. As long as you are open to trying the juice from lesser known villages and producers, you will be in for a treat. The best thing about it for us drinkers is that they are sensibly priced, reflecting the cost of production rather than the perceived image and prestige. Those of you who have taken wines made by Aurore and Vincent Bachelet over the last couple of years would know what I am talking about.
My latest discovery in the region started couple of years ago one dark and rainy Sunday evening following an accidental recommendation by the owner of a restaurant in Beaune. After some 10 h driving from London we genuinely intended just to have a quick glass with our dinner and go to sleep. Being tired, we decided to be “lazy” and go with the recommendation of the restaurant owner rather than debating ins and outs of the wines on the wine list. What was served was so good that we eventually opened 4 different wines from the Domaine which were available in the restaurant. The next morning we were on the phone to arrange a meeting/tasting and some two years of visiting/tasting/negotiating we finally got an allocation of the 2022 vintage.
Dear people, please meet DOMAINE D’ARDHUY!
Based in a very fine Manor house in the middle of Burgundy. And when I say THE MIDDLE, I mean exactly that. The actual house and the main cellar are in the middle a single vineyard LE CLOS DES LANGRES which had been producing fine juice since it was first planted by the monks in 10th Century. This is the absolute last vineyard at the southern end of Cotes de Nuits/Nuits St Georges (Northern part of Burgundy). On the other side of the Domaine’s wall to the south, starts Cotes de Beaune (the southern part of Burgundy). To me, this little part of Burgundy around the hill of Corton has its own individual character and really should have its own, separate appellation. The wines are very distinct from the wines further north especially the reds. I actually prefer softer, earlier developing tannins with soft red summer fruit in the wines of Beaune, Corton, Ladoix, Savigny les Beaune to the tighter and more intense tannins we find in famous villages of Gevery Chambertin, Vosne Romanee, Chambole Musigny etc. Perhaps I am just getting inpatient at my old age?
The domaine, which had been certified Biodynamic since 2012, had been in the same family since early 1900’s and is currently under the stewardship of Vincent Bottreau - a very talented young winemaker. As usual in Burgundy, the focus is on the single vineyards production and individual expression. They farm just over 34 hectares of vineyards and make 44 different individual wines. To put it into a perspective, a Chateaux in Bordeaux like Lynch Bages, Talbot, Lafite Rothschild etc would farm around 100 Hectares each and make 1 main wine and a 2nd wine. That is the real Burgundy for you. Attention to detail and intimate knowledge of every single plot is what the story is about, displaying individual expression of every terroir from a humble village wines to the Grand Cru level. So, for this inaugural release, I will present only a small selection of 2022 wines (including 2 Grand Crus) which are ready to ship. One of the things that is very interesting is that, although the domaine is on the main road from Beaune to Nuits St Georges (and therefore difficult to miss), they had not (yet) been reviewed by any Mayor critic, so you will just have to trust my palate. I was so impressed by the wines that I did not even ask if they had any ratings. Perhaps that is the reason why they are so well priced. Who knows what might happen if they start getting some 95+ points….
The majority of the holdings are Pinot Noir, so this release will have 4 red wines and only 2 whites.
And now, on to the wines. Tasted 3 times since November last year – at the domaine; at our trade tasting in February and again at a wine fair in Paris few weeks ago. The thing that impresses me most is the consistency of the quality across the range as well as consistency of performance of each individual wine. I have become a big fan!
Whites:
Ladoix 2022
ZR – 16++
Ladoix-Serigny is the first village you run across as you drive north from Beaune along the D974 through the vineyards towards Nuits St Georges. If you have never heard of it, that is due to the fact that is one of the smallest appellations in Burgundy and most of it seems to be drunk locally. The juice for the Ladoix Blanc comes from the slopes just under the Grand Cru Corton and the plots are orientated South and South East – about as perfect for white production in Burgundy as you will get. The wine itself displays classic white summer flowers and soft white stone fruit on the nose, gaining the depth and complexity on the palate with very subtle, soft vanilla and summer honey in the background. This is drinking already, but will improve over the next 12- 18 months and will drink very well for further 2-3 y. I can not emphasize enough how great value for the money this wine is. An absolute Bargain for White Burgundy lovers!
Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2022
ZR 19 - ( - is purely as I am trying to control my enthusiasm for this domaine)
The juice comes from old wines (30 – 60 y) on the South East facing slopes at around 300 m altitude on the hill of Corton. This is about as classic high quality White Burgundy as one can hope to find, displaying all the hallmarks of a serious Grand Cru. It is rich and elegant at the same time, with excellent balance of ripe summer fruit and uplifting freshness of tropical fruit underneath. Pears and apricots run the show with underlining soft oak and summer blossom honey. This is drinking very well even at this early stage, but will be improving over the next 24 months and will drink well for at least further 3. It is a real rare beast these days to find serious white Grand Cru Burgundy at this price. Ok, at £ 100 per bott + vat it is by no means a cheap wine, but it is a serious bargain compared to large number of famous 1er Crus further south in Puligny and Meursault. If you are going to drop £ 100 + on a bottle of white, this one will beat anything else that I have tasted over the last 12 months.
Reds:
Ladoix rouge 2022
ZR 16
The family owns a strip of land under vines all the way from the top of the hill of Corton down to the main road and the grapes for this village cuvee come from the plots at the lower parts (altitude around 250 m) from vines at around 30 y old. Being lower down the slope, the soil here is slightly richer, providing earlier ripening and softer tannins. These are highly polished and soft, giving way to red cherries and soft red fruit with just a hint of wood in the background. Very well constructed, soft and happy for early drinking. You can’t really ask for more from a glass of Pinto Noir from anywhere, especially Burgundy. Will drink well for about 5 y.
Ladoix Clos des Chagnots Monopole 2022
ZR 17
This monopole vineyard is just to the south of the Domaine and just underneath Le Corton Grand Cru and by all accounts it should have at least a 1er Cru status. It is further up to slope from the village Ladoix planted on the soil with more silt and stones allowing for better drainage and providing grapes with more precision, concentration and intensity. Still quite closed on the nose at this early stage, it is a more serious and intellectual expression of Ladoix with focused black cherries and some light smoke in the background. The palate delivers much more complexity and intensity. There is highly polished, but serious tannin backbone to the wine, supporting crunchy black berries and sour cherries on the palate. Very refined and long. Feels much more like serious Vosne Romanee than Ladoix. This will reward 2-3 years of patience, but will be difficult to resist. I expect it to hit the drinking table from around summer 2027 and go on for 5 y+ (if only one can be patient…). A lot of wine for this price!
Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Les Peuillets 2022
ZR 17++ ( trying to control my enthusiasm)
Les Peuillets 1er Cru is the most southerly 1er cru in Savigny Les Beaune and lies just across the rd from the famous Beaune 1er Cru Clos de Roi. The juice comes from vines at around 45 y of age on a slope at 250m altitude on well drained sandy/rocky soils with great drainage capacity allowing for easy ripening even in difficult vintages. It is one of the first plots to be harvested at the domaine and this 2022 version is showing the real 1er Cru class. The wine shows deep dark ruby colour, very shiny and attractive in the glass. At this early stage, tannins and fresh acidity run the show, with focused, intense black summer berries confit in the background. All is supported by really fine, uplifting acidity. This is a real class Burgundy act. If this liquid was carrying Vosne Romanee or Chambole Musigny label, it would be cheap at 3 times this price. A very serious drop of wine and a seriously good deal. Again, it will benefit from 3-4 years in the cellar, but who can be patient. I have thoroughly enjoyed the samples we opened for tasting and in the shop. One to use if you want to confuse any serious Burgundy collector in a blind tasting. I would never place it a Savigny!
Corton Grand Cru Les Renardes 2022
ZR – 18 ++
Yes, I did have to check couple of times that I got the price right. The domaine owns 4 different Grand Cru parcels in Corton – the Renardes is the biggest one of them and the owners had decided to price is in such way that normal people can have access to a Grand Cru wine. Quite refreshing in world that we live in these days - kudos to them. The wine itself is made with the same meticulous care as all their other wines and this is really a proper Grand Cru. Renardes is at the high elevation (over 300m) on iron rich limestone making powerful & intense wines. The juice comes from vines which are over 55y old which only increases the intensity and complexity, so you have all the makings of a great wine. 2022 vintage shows typical richness one would expect from a Grand Cru and the 2022 vintage. The tannins are quite intense on opening, but polished and refined supported by underlining complexity. This evolved very well over the 24 hours that I kept the sample after opening, so I would suggest the lie it down for at last 5 y ( or double decant overnight and enjoy) and it will drink for at least further 10 – 15 y. The palate evolves into soft, rich, gentle, black fruit dominated liquid with some classic, farmyard and cured meat notes in the background. Very classy drop of Burgundy and a bargain to boot.
All the best ,
Zoran