Mauro and Terreus 2021 release
Most of you are aware of my love affair with all things made by Garcia family and I am glad to announce that after more than 10 years, it is getting stronger and stronger. I am also glad that so many of you are enjoying these wines and write back to me; it makes it all worth a while. Not sure how they manage to deliver such level of quality year in, year out but, I for one, will not complain. The combination of biodynamic practices, improved understanding of high altitude vineyards as well as more subdued use of barrels are now delivering wines with more layers, more refinement and more complexity.
Add to the mixture the 2021 vintage which was one of the great vintages along the Duero Valey and you have perfect conditions for greatness. Talking about the vintage, the 2021 started with snow covered vineyards left by Filomena storm. This provided the vines with conditions for a very good winter rest ( like a good night sleep) and ample supply of water for the following growing season. Rest of the year was warm and dry till August when few sporadic storms brought some extra water and, more importantly, drop in temperatures which provided ideal condition for the final part of the ripening season. All in all, as good a vintage as a vine grower might hope for.
There had been no published reviews from any of the mayor international critics so you will need to rely on my musings. As usual, I have tasted both wines twice in barrel, then immediately after bottling, once more in February at our agency spring tasting and last weekend in preparation for this release, so the review below is a conglomeration of the notes.
MAURO 2021 - ZR 17+
On top of 85% Tempranillo, 2021 Mauro contains 15% mix of Cab Sauvignon, Syrah and Graciano which provide additional levels of freshness in order to combat increasing temperatures. They have also added the layers of flavours which might explain the increase in complexity we are seeing over the last few years. The 2021 is shiny, deep purple, with quite restrained nose at this stage, but it is the palate where everything happens. Soft, autumn forest berries dominate the mid palate, with quite evident structure brought in by the Cabernet. Behind this immediate impact, there are underlining freshness and highly polished tannins which provide all the framework for the balance and structure. It feels like really high level Grand Cru Classe St Emilion from the gravel plateau, but with additional complexity. Pure joy and a lot of wine for these pennies!!!
Last sample, which we opened in the shop on Friday evening, was blossoming during Saturday but was a pure hedonistic pleasure by lunchtime on Sunday. I would suggest that letting it rest for about 3 years would be very beneficial, but if you can not resist, double decanting for few hours (or overnight) would do a very good job. Taking into account that the last couple vintages were granted 94 points in the Wine Advocate, I would not be surprised if this one is a notch higher. My 17+ feel very conservative.
TERREUS 2021 - ZR - 19++
I find it very difficult to contain my enthusiasm for this release of Tereus. It feels like a hypothetical blend of Lafite Rothschild and the best of Napa Cabs (Spottswoode comes to mid). The juice comes from a single vineyard at around 840 m altitude, rich in chalk (which is providing complex aromatics) but laid on fine clay (which provides the structure). The total production is around 10 000 bottles - for comparison, this is about third of production of Petrus and half of that of La Tache. As Mauro above, it is bright and shiny purple, almost black. But in this case, nose is impressive and complex right from the first pour. Crushed, fresh blackberries and black cherries ooze out of the glass covered by the highest quality dark chocolate. You get the immediate WHHHHOOOOAAAAA!!!!! here. The nose was so impressive that I think it took me more then 10 minutes before I took the first sip. Hedonistic and intellectual at the same time, a wine to meditate with. There is not much definition on the palate at this stage, just overall feeling of richness and complexity, but it lasts forever. The tannins are about as ripe as polished as I think they could possibly be. A great drop of vino whichever way you look at it. Out of the great 2021 releases that I have tasted this year, the Sassicaia got granted 100 pints by the critics and Tignanello 98, but to me, the Tereus is much more complete wine. I will go as far as to say the best wine I have had this year even if I completely disregard the price/value aspect. "Why not the full 20 points?" you would ask. Well, I feel that I might be emotionally involved here, so just trying to restrain myself on the record. On my personal notes, this is pure 20 (or 100 in Parker points).
For those of you with investment in mind, I have no idea if Mauro and Terreus will ever get the recognition that I believe they truly deserve. So a potential resale value might not reflect the upside in wine quality or what you would expect. However, as much as I can think of, this is about as great investment in your own drinking pleasure as you can make. One of the biggest bargains of the fine wine world.
So much for this time
Wishing you all the best
Zoran
City Wine Collection Ltd